Molds: C1036 Dinner Plate, C2023 Large Soup or Chili Cup, C1037 Medium Plate

Color Codes: Bright Yellow, Purple, Peach, Forest Green, Lime Green, Rust, Coral, Indigo Blue, Leaf Green, Black, Clown Red, Circus Red, Citrus Orange

Glazes: Diamond Clear, Glossy Black, Rust Brown

Brushes: #8 and #10 Round Sabeline, #4 Liner, Glaze Brush

Stoneware slip can be purchased in jars. The slip is thick but do not add water to thin down the consistency. Pour the slip into a pitcher or a suitable container, then stir well with a wooden spoon until the slip is well mixed. The stirring actually thins the slip.

When casting stoneware slip, the set up time is about the same as ceramic (earthenware) slip. I recommend that you cast the stoneware slip a bit thicker. Drain the excess slip from the mold in the usual manner, then trim with a sharp knife as soon as possible. NEVER tear the spare from the mold as this will cause stress on the clay body.

Let the casting sit in the mold until it is leather hard. If, during the removal of the casting, the clay seems to still be wet, give the piece a little more time. Any distortion of the piece will be visible after firing. Stoneware is very much like porcelain, as it has a memory. If the greenware is disturbed while wet, even though you think the piece has been "fixed," the casting will return to the same warped condition during the firing. It is important to remember not to dry the casting in half of the mold or to force the drying process. Even drying of the ware is essential to the finished product.

When removing seam lines from stoneware, tread the piece just as you would earthenware. First, use a clean-up tool to pull down the seam lines. If working on earthenware, use a grit scrubber to smooth out the scratches. If working on stoneware, use an old nylon stocking instead of the scrubber to sand and smooth the ware. Follow this procedure by lightly damp sponging the pieces to remove the excess dust.

Optional Firing: If you prefer- to work on bisque, fire the greenware piece to cone 06 (1830°F 1999°C ). For earthenware, this is a mature bisque firing. For the stoneware, this is a relatively soft firing temperature but will allow you to work on the pieces without concern for breakage.

Select patterns that work well for you and fit the pieces. Either sketch or trace the patterns onto the various pieces. If working on greenware, use clay carbon to copy your pattern onto the piece. The carbon will burn off during the firing.

The underglazes used in this technique have been formulated to work on bisque, greenware or over textured glazes. Shake each color before using. If you prefer to have color on the handles or on the inside of the pieces, then apply three coats of the color of your choice. I selected Rust Color Code for those areas. The bands featured on the plates will be completed after finishing all other decorating and just prior to firing.

Rust - Use a #8 Round brush to apply one flowing coat to fill in the branches and stems.

Leaf Green - Clean and use the same brush to apply two flowing coats, following the leaf contour to the top half of each leaf.

Forest Green - Fill in the bottom of the leaves.

Citrus Orange-Use a #10 Round brush to apply three flowing coats to fill in the oranges. Always follow the contour of the fruit you are painting.

Lime Green - Two coats to the grapes. Indigo Blue - Two coats to the plums. Clown Red - Three coats to the apples.
Circus Red - Two coats to the cherries.
Coral - Two coats to the apricots.
Bright Yellow - Two coats to lemons.

Special Note: All of the recommended colors will fire true when used on stoneware and fired to cone 5 (2185°F/1196°C ). Note that the purples and pink colors will not fire true when fired to these stoneware temperatures.

DETAILING

Use a #4 Liner to outline all the design elements of the pattern with Black Color Code. Define the pattern details.

Select the Color Code of your choice to complete the plate rims. For the ones in this photo, I used Rust. To do the banding, center the plate on a banding wheel and fully load a #8 Round brush with the color you choose. Apply three coats to the rims. If selecting the Clown Red, apply four coats. This color works well for the backs of the plates and the inside of the cup. Let the Color Codes dry before proceeding.

If you are working on greenware, bisque fire the pieces (stoneware or earthenware) to cone O5 (1915°F/1046°C). If working on fired bisque, proceed to the glaze process.

GLAZE

Earthenware: Apply two coats of Diamond Clear to the inside and outside of all earthenware pieces. Let each coat dry before applying the next. If desired, glaze the back of the plates with three coats of the same color used to finish the rims,  Rust Brown. When the glaze has dried, carefully dry foot each piece. Fire the pieces in a well vcnted kiln to cone O5-04 (1915°F/1046°C-1940°F/1060°C).

Stoneware: Apply one very even coat of Diamond Clear glaze over the design areas and two very thin coats to the inside surfaces. This may be applied with an airbrush. Exercise great care while glazing stoneware clay. The clay does not require as much glaze as earthenware. If desired, glaze the back of the plates with three coats of the same color used to finish the rims. If too much glaze is applied, the design may bleed, blisters may appear or a delayed crazing will develop.

FIRING

Dry foot the pieces and fire in a well-vented kiln to cone 5 (2185°F/1196°C). Allow the pieces to cool slowly.

Firing tip:

Cast a circle from C499 Round Medallion mold when you cast each 12" plate. Place under the center of the plate as it comes from the mold to prevent the center of the plate from sagging. This circle is also used when the plate is fired. Just cover the circle with High-Fire Separator and place under the center of the plate to keep it from sagging in the firing.